Friday, December 27, 2013

Indian Cooking Unfolded

Indian Cooking Unfolded/Workman Publishing

In Indian Cooking Unfolded, Raghavan Iyer presents an introduction to regional Indian cooking. "My newest book is based upon my 23-year culinary teaching career," Iyer writes. "It's a cookbook that gives you the building blocks and the techniques of Indian cooking. It's written for somebody who has never cooked Indian." Iyer was raised as a vegetarian in a Brahman home in Mumbai, India.

Structured as a cooking class, the book includes 100 recipes with 10 or fewer ingredients, all of which are available at the local supermarket. Every dish is prepped in a half hour or less. "Indian food does not have to be complicated, and each recipe throughout the book achieves a complex-appearing layering of flavors without being cumbersome to execute. I have chosen these recipes to showcase classic regional flavors, some the traditional way, while others in a more contemporary way."

Indian Cooking Unfolded/Workman Publishing

Recipes at the top of seven of the ten chapters fold out into a spread with step-by-step photography illustrating different cooking techniques or ways to combine and prep ingredients. "In a literal and figurative sense, the book folds out and unfolds the cuisine. It demystifies it." Each chapter is defined as a course where recipes build on the techniques learned in the previous ones.

There are two basic spice blends made from five spices used in India: cardamom pods, turmeric (ground) and coriander, cumin and mustard seeds--a spice grinder is the only equipment required. Recipes also list bay leaves, cinnamon, cloves, fennel, nutmeg, peppercorns, and saffron. The five essential herbs and flavorings are chiles (fresh serrano and dried cayenne), cilantro, ginger, and mint. 

Indian Cooking Unfolded/Workman Publishing

"When we Indians use spices, we can extract at least eight different flavors from any single spice, depending on the technique we use. With the plethora of spices and herbs we have in our repertoire, from which we can extract similar numbers of flavors, you begin to realize the impact they have on the world of Indian cuisine. Our dishes taste so complex because one ingredient is treated in different ways to extract layers of flavors." Iyer's earlier book, 660 Curries, explores Indian cooking more in-depth for those beyond the introductory level.

Indian Cooking Unfolded/Workman Publishing

Chickpea pan crepes with onion

"Not as thick as pancakes and not as wispy thin as crepes, these just right pan crepes are egglike in appearance and have that same buttery richness along with a lingering heat from the chiles," Iyer writes in this recipe's headnote. "Any vegetable works well with pan crepes. I usually add ribbons of fresh spinach, chopped tomatoes, mushrooms, blanched asparagus, artichoke hearts, and bell peppers. Add in some of your favorite shredded cheeses as the pan crepes cook. Great as is for breakfast. Serving the pan crepes with a bowl of plain yogurt will take the edge off the heat from the chiles."

Makes 4 pan crepes

Ingredients:

1 cup chickpea flour (Bob's Red Mill) 
1 teaspoon coarse kosher or sea salt
1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 cup finely chopped red onion
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves and tender stems
3 to 4 fresh serrano chiles, finely chopped (do not remove the seeds)
4 teaspoons canola oil

Combine the chickpea flour, salt and turmeric in a medium-size bowl. Pour in 1/2 cup of warm water and whisk it in. Once the batter is smooth, whisk in an additional 1/4 cup of water. The consistency of the batter should be slightly thinner than a pancake batter. 

Combine the onion, cilantro and chiles in a small bowl. Stir the mixture into the batter.

Drizzle a teaspoon of the oil into a medium-size nonstick skillet or cast-iron pan and heat over medium heat. Halfway through the oil getting warm--about 45 seconds--pour in 1/2 cup of the batter and spread it evenly so it is about 6 inches in diameter. Let the pan crepe cook until the top turns opaque, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn the pan crepe over and cook the second side until it has a few brown spots, 1 minute more. Transfer it to a plate. Let skillet cool slightly and repeat process with remaining oil and batter. 





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