The Complete Middle Eastern Cookbook

The Complete Middle Eastern Cookbook by Tess Mallos (Hardie Grant). Photography: Alan Benson.

Australian writer and author Tess Mallos (Anastasia Calopades) wrote 16 cookbooks, many of them featuring cuisines in the Mediterranean, Middle East and North Africa. While some of her books focused on recipes from her Greek heritage, it was The Complete Middle Eastern Cookbook (1977, edited and revised by Tess in 2012 for a new edition) that became her most well-known. It's a comprehensive reference to Middle Eastern cooking--more than 500 dishes from 18 countries: Greece, Cyprus, Turkey, Armenia, Syria, Lebanon, Jordan, Iraq, Bahrain, Kuwait, Saudi Arabia, UAE, Qatar, Oman, Yemen, Egypt, Iran, and Afghanistan. Tess traveled extensively to research authentic local recipes.

Each country is introduced with a short history that provides context for the recipes that follow. Tess highlights regional dishes, food customs, cooking methods, and common ingredients. A basics section in the front of the book details steps such as how to trim artichokes, bake flat breads, prep filo pastry, and cook syrups and the glossary includes regional names and descriptions of ingredients. Several of the dishes are illustrated with photographs by Sydney-based food and travel photographer Alan Benson. 

From the chapter on Turkey:

Patlican kizartmasi--eggplant fritters

Serves 6

3 eggplants, each about 9 oz.

Salt, for sprinkling

Batter (see below)

Olive oil for frying

Cut the eggplants lengthwise into thin slices and arrange on a tray. Sprinkle with salt and let rest for 30 minutes. Make the batter: combine 1 cup all-purpose flour and 1 teaspoon salt in a bowl, then pour in 3/4 cup beer and mix until smooth. Dip each eggplant slice into the batter and pan-fry over medium-high heat in hot oil until golden brown on both sides. The slices cook in about 3 minutes. 

Tarator--hazelnut dip

This Turkish dip is traditionally served with fish and vegetables. The hazelnuts can be replaced with almonds or walnuts. (A garlic yogurt can substitute for the tarator: combine 1-2 pressed garlic cloves with 1/2 teaspoon salt, mix the garlic into 1 cup yogurt and chill.)

1 cup hazelnuts, whole

1 cup white breadcrumbs

3 garlic cloves, chopped

1 cup olive oil

1/2 cup white wine vinegar

1 teaspoon salt

Place hazelnuts in a bowl, cover with boiling water for 5 minutes. Drain and grind the hazelnuts in a food processor. Add the breadcrumbs, garlic, salt, and vinegar and process until smooth. Gradually drizzle in the olive oil to make a thick, creamy sauce. Serve at room temperature with the eggplant fritters.